17 April 2022

So the next part top consider is the steam chest chamber.

The photo shows the casting as delivered from Reeves.

I(t has the valve guide positions caste into the casting so caruful consideration will need to be given as to how to clean up the outside on that edge and the only way will be to file away the flashing and make as good as possible with out damaging the slide vale guides.

Top and bottom surfaces will be machined in the 4 jaw vice and the edges machined in the mill as was the  top of the steam chest shown earlier.


18th April

The steam chest was held in a 4 jaw chuck and after measurement the fist side brought to size.

The unit was then turned over in the 4 jaw chuck and the other side machined to bring the unit to the overall thickness required.

The inside was then cleaned up with hand file and my small battery belt sander.

The photo shows the cylinders with end caps and the steam chest above and the steam chest top above that.

Now I have to decide how to mark out and hold the pieces to drill and tap as needed so that the part secure together and then decide how to drill the holes in the steam chest for the valve spindles.

All sounds easy but needs thinking about !!

Total time today just short of 2 hours !!!

19th April

The steam chest top is now coloured withthe marking out blue.

The holes to be drilled must be carefully marked out so the they miss the steam ways.

When marked they will then be centre popped using my optical centre punch and then drilled taping drill size for 4BA bolts. Eventually the holes will be opened up to clearance size for 4BA in both the steam chest and the steam chest top but not until the holes in the steam chest and cylinders have been drilled with the tapping drill as those in the cylinder need to be tapped 4BA.



20th April

Not much done today but the top is now marked out.

I hope I can drill the holes after centre popping tomorrow.

21st April

So the marking out was centre punched.

Then onto the drilling but no correct size drill for the 4BA. So they are now ordered and will all being well arrive tomorrow !!!


22nd April

The new drills arrived as hoped for and they are very nice and drilled all the holes in the top of the steam chest in about 30 minutes.

Nest will be the setting up to drill all the holes through the steam chest and into the cylinder block initially as tapping holes and the widen out in the steam chest and steam chest top to clearance holes.

Then tape the cylinder holes 4BA !!

23rd April

To ensure that the remaining holes were drilled correctly the two corner holes were tapped into the cylinder and the cover and steam chest drill out clearance size.

Then the remaining hole were drill tapping size.


Now the clearance holes could be drilled in the cover and the steam chest.

The front edge of trhe steam chest was stamped with an T to indicate top so that there could be no mistake.

All the drilling and tapping for 4BA completed successfully.

I have decided to cut the he3ads off the bolts and use them as studs as to cut the bolt the exact length required to tighten down would require more skill then I have !!

But that is for another day !!!


26th April

Cut the heads off the bolts located the centre of the Steam chest cover and drilled a pilot hole.


Pilot hole in cylinder

The pilot holes were opened out to the tapping size for 12"x26TPI

27th April

The steam chest spacer is a simple turning piece and made in brass and threaded at both ends


The hole previously drill in the cylinder was tapped and the piece made to fit.

The top end is also threaded to take the exhaust steam up the chimney.


30 April

Blue marking out fluid applied to cylinder casting.


Marked out to drill the exhaust port to the exhaust vent. There are two lines showing maximum and  realistic angles to drill !!

Must avoid the drill going into the cylinder bore !!

3rd May 2022

After a few days thought I set up the angle vice and held the cylinder block as shown ( actually this is as it was for the second hole).

The angle was checked as on the drawing above and the DRO used to indicate the depth.

First a centre drill eas used to make a location for the 1/4" drill which was then used to drill down to the vertical hole drilled previously. A piece of plastic hose was then placed into the exhaust hole and blown through top prove the exhaust way was clear.

Then the block was reversed to as shown in the photo and the same procedure to centre drill fist and then the 1/4" drill but the angle and position on the bed remained unchanged.

The cylinder block was then removed and a good blow through (with eyes closed) to ensure that both ways were filly clear.